The Ridiculous: The Crazy Old Man and Psycho-Bitch Wineries

20 07 2009

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We usually take at least one Missouri winery tour each year with friends and family in remembrance of Tom, Mary Jo’s husband, who enjoyed touring the wine country.  This year we started on Saturday with the Yellow Farmhouse Vineyard and Winery in Defiance, MO.  It was a beautiful day and a great setting.  Mary Jo came prepared with sausage, cheese, cherries, peppers, hummus, and sunglasses. 

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There was nothing ridiculous about the setting or the company, but Doug (AKA Jake) introduced us to bottles from The Crazy Old Man and Psycho-Bitch Wineries.  They are sub-micro wineries that exist only in Doug’s (AKA Crazy Old Man’s) fevered imagination.

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The alcohol content of the Psycho-Bitch wine is “Who gives a shit?”  It’s enough to make you laugh ’til the wine comes out your nose.

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On Sunday we paid our first visit to the Olivette Diner, a local landmark almost as old as we are.  I ordered a Slinger, and was thrilled to get the classic version, hash browns, hamburger patties, and eggs any way, all covered by chili garnished with cheese and raw onions.  I now consider the Olivette Diner Slinger to be my current favorite in the St. Louis area.  There’s nothing ridiculous about a good diner, either, but it’s a long way from The Stone Soup Cottage.  I do love both extremes.

- Poppa





The Sublime: Big Fun at Stone Soup Cottage

20 07 2009

Our friend Roger invited us to join him at what he described as “a legal underground restaurant” last Friday night.  It’s a place run by two friends of his and is barely three weeks old.  Stone Soup Cottage is a very special place.  It’s open three nights per week (Sunday morning for brunch) and only has seven tables seating a maximum of about 22 people.  There is one evening seating at 6:30 PM and a chef’s prix fixe tasting menu with a choice of either a four or six course dinner.  Wines are paired with four of the courses.  The menu changes from week to week with the focus primarily on French and Italian cuisine.

The restaurant is in a tiny 150 year-old house in Cottleville, MO.  The house has been beautifully restored and provides an atmosphere both charming and intimate.  We were met at the door by Chef Carl and his wife Nancy, handed flutes containing a crisp, fruity Portuguese sparkling wine, and escorted to our table.

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The tables were beautifully laid.  After everyone was seated, the dinner was launched with an amuse-bouche, French for “party in your mouth.”  (Actually, “mouth amuser.”)  The amuse-bouche Friday night was a tiny puff pastry filled with finely chopped tomato mixed with bits of cheese and topped with what might have been crème fraîche.  Superb!  Then, the courses started to come out.

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First Course
Mixed Rocket Greens and Baby Herbs Dressed with Sweet Sherry Vinaigrette
garnished with a Petite Chèvre Croquette and Toast
Wine Pairing Option: 2006 Mason Sauvignon Blanc

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Second Course
Escargot with Plugrá Butter and Garlic
Wine Pairing Option: 2007 Ambroise Bourgogne Rouge

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 Third Course
Wild Sea Scallop en Papillote
infused with Fresh Fennel and Pernod
Wine Pairing Option: 2007 Nugan Chardonnay

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 Fourth Course
Gratin Dauphinois
finished with Shaved Black Truffles
Wine Pairing Option: 2007 Spellbound Petite Sirah

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 Fifth Course
Petite Chateaubriand
accompanied by Farmers Market Vegetables
Wine Pairing Option: 2006 Titus Zinfandel

Imaginary photo of my Grand Marnier Soufflé

 Sixth Course
Grand Marnier Soufflés
served directly from the oven with Orange Crème Anglaise
or
Fromage Plate
garnished with Dried Fruit and Toast

Where is the sixth course picture, you might ask?  When they put the Grand Marnier Soufflé down in front of me, I was beyond thinking about the camera and just dug in.  At some point between the courses, there was a Limoncello Sorbet palate cleanser and a wine substitution as well, though I don’t recall what was substituted for what.  We finished the meal with a cup of excellent coffee, which I of course ruined with cream and sugar.

Was it a great meal?  By the third course, I’d run out of superlatives and started to repeat myself.  The food was wonderful, the presentation was beautiful, the staff was attentive without being intrusive, and our dinner companions were a lot of fun.  This is one of the best, most memorable meals of my life, right up there with Sea Scallops with Black Truffles, fettuccine with morel mushrooms, Steak Diavola, and Arancini at Tony’s, my first Rueben, my Mother’s Swiss Steak, and mostly-raw ground beef and vegetables on my first Boy Scout campout (appetite is truly the best sauce).

- Poppa

 





How We Came to Eat Fresh Sweet Corn Last Weekend

13 07 2009

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Disclaimer: I did not create the amusing corn-eating-cat graphic.

Ideally, the way to eat sweet corn is to bring the water to a boil, AND THEN go pick the corn from your garden, shuck it as you cross the back yard, and drop it right in the pot to cook.  I’ve only done that once in my life, back in the ‘70s on Kim and Jim’s farm, and it was a life-changing corn experience.  But if you can’t do that, at least try to find ears that were still on the plant when the sun came up on the day you’re going to eat them.

It’s been years since we’ve had sweet corn fresh from the fields.  I know we haven’t had any this millennium since we’ve never found a roadside stand around St. Louis and we don’t know anybody here who grows it.   Grocery store corn is better than no sweet corn, and the farmer’s market corn we’ve had hasn’t been much better than grocery store corn.  It’s a little chewy, a little starchy, but still good and that’s what we’ve settled for.

But enough about that for now.  This is supposed to be about eating fresh sweet corn last weekend.

Around the time Nan and I were born, Nan’s parents bought themselves a nice floor lamp, very modern for its day.  For over 50 years, the lamp sat in the Moore home, minding its own business, not causing any trouble.  Then Nan’s mother moved and we brought the lamp back to our place to grace the floor next to my TV-watchin’, lap-top-usin’, book-readin’ chair.

We dressed it up a little, replacing the brittle old shade with a new one and adding a filial made from a beautiful blue purie shooter.  For the first time in many years, the lamp was expected to perform on a nightly basis and its old circuitry just wasn’t up to it anymore.  It had a three-level bulb, and, level by level, it stopped working unless you jiggled the lamp.  One night, no amount of jiggling would persuade it to work.  It was time to change the switch, and, since the cord itself was old and brittle, time to change the cord.

Easier said than done.  It wasn’t as simple as snaking the cord through a tube; there were four right angle turns required because the lamp had a double-jointed swivel at the top.  I finally figured out how to disassemble the whole thing down to its component pieces by unscrewing the heavy metal disk that served as ballast in the base plate.  After much muttering and grumbling, Nan and I succeeded in getting the cord through all of the bends only to discover I’d gotten a loop of the cord trapped between the metal disk and the base plate and I stripped the cord and broke the wire while pulling it out.  Naturally, we didn’t have what we needed to fix the cord in the house, so the lamp sat in a corner until we got a round tuit.

Last weekend there were thousands of baseball fans swarming around Downtown because of the introductory events leading up to the All-Star Game on Tuesday when Obama and his sharpshooters will no doubt completely shut the city down (except for pedestrian traffic) when he comes to throw something at Busch Stadium.  As much as I enjoy seeing people spend money in my neighborhood, I hate trying to get around Downtown in a car when something like this is going on; streets are closed or jammed, and every now and then some yahoo blocks the entrance to our garage, leaving us trapped in or blocked out, depending on which side of the door we’re on when it happens.

We had every intention of barricading ourselves in our Fortress of Solitude all weekend.  But I said I thought the recycling was getting full and we could probably make a quick dash to the bins, and Nan suggested going an extra few miles to Home Despot [sic] for the hardware we needed for the lamp and reward ourselves with a nice lunch somewhere.  By the time we’d finished our shopping at the Big Orange Box, we were starving.  OK, we weren’t actually starving, but we were both one of the 1 in 8 people in America who were hungry at that point in time.

I lobbied hard for Gioia’s Deli, one of my all-time favorites, but when we got there, we found they were on vacation (it’s a small operation).  Nan remembered reading in Sauce Magazine that The Royale has a burger that got good marks in a recent He Said/She Said article.  We’ve known of The Royale for several years; it was opened by a Friend of a Friend.  But the menu always looked a little too New Age for me, so we’d never tried it.  However, a highly regarded He Said/She Said burger is not to be dismissed lightly.  We were in the neighborhood, and we went.

It was an altogether positive experience.  The burger was called the Royale, a half-pound of Australian-raised Wagyu Kobe beef on a perfectly sized slightly sweet bun reminiscent of a brioche.  If you wanted cheese on it, you can get a little extra frisson when you order a “Royale with Cheese.”  Nan had a fish taco that was outstanding.  The place has a cool hipster vibe, the specialty drinks look interesting, and there’s no smoking inside.  I’m pretty sure we’ll be back.

 

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Royale with Cheese

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Fish Taco

And now for the dénouement.  When we walked in the door of The Royale, we saw a copy of the Sauce Magazine that led us here.  We didn’t own a copy, so we picked one up, perused it, and noticed an article about a place to buy fresh sweet corn, Keller Farms.  They sell fresh sweet corn from four different stands just across the river in Illinois.  Sold the same day it was picked.  We went.  It was good.  We’ll go back.  The kernels popped between your teeth like caviar.

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And all because fifty years ago, Nan’s parents bought a lamp.

- Poppa